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2007 Side Case Conversion "how To"


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#1 sandornothing

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:19 PM

Long time reader here......but never once posted. Thought I'd give a little back and contribute to the tech.

This is for those wondering how the install goes with the 2007 side case (with the oil squirter) onto your running, motor in the frame, 04-06 YFZ. I finished the whole job over a 2 day period. I took my sweet azz time spending only a couple hours both days. But there is no reason you cannot wrap it up entirely in an afternoon.

This is going to take about 8 or 9 posts so give me about a half hour to get it all up.

I got my kit from Bob @ Magnolia. Apparently I was the first to order the kit so he did not really have any technical info about the kit, nor could he provide any installation tips......which was understandable.

To the dirt........

Out of the ordinary tools needed:
c-clip pliers
1-3/16(??) socket.......clutch basket nut removal

The rest were basic wrenches, sockets, pliers, screwdrivers, ect.

Start by removing your foot peg and rear brake lever. Next remove your oil filter cover and old filter. Save the 3 o-rings behind the filter because you are going to reuse them. Now drain both your coolant and oil (case & res). Next remove the water pump cover and impellar. Again, save the o-ring behind the water pump cover because you are going to reuse it. At this point your entire side case should be accessable. Next remove the clutch cover from the case. Then remove the banjo bolt from the top side of the case. Then remove all 8mm bolts from the outer edge of the case and pull it off. Don't be affraid to give it a nice heathly pull either. Also, be careful removing the oil line at the bottom of the case as you are going to reuse the o-ring and sleeve behind it.

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  • Attached File  oil5.JPG   250.27K   74 downloads


#2 sandornothing

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:22 PM

In your kit you will have all the needed seals, clips, check ball, and springs that go into the new case. The only thing that is supposed to be reused for this particular kit is the water pump bearing. Take it easy removing the water pump bearing, it is easy to damage. I tapped it out using a socket that had the same diameter as the outer race on the bearing. On a good note, the bearing can be replaced for about $12. I destroyed both inner and outer water pump oil seals and had to replace them on my own because the kit did not include them.For personal assurance I took everything apart out of the old case and inspected it just to make certain of how the new stuff goes in the new case. Your call........

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  • Attached File  oil1.JPG   248.98K   56 downloads

Edited by sandornothing, 18 December 2006 - 11:24 PM.


#3 sandornothing

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:27 PM

Now you will notice that the clutch basket is obstructing the 3rd bolt fastening the oil pump to the inner case. Remove the clutch basket. Now remove the oil pump drive gear behind the basket. The kit replaces the c-clip and washer on that drive gear.

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#4 sandornothing

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:28 PM

Here is the drive gear and oil pump exposed.

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#5 sandornothing

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:30 PM

another of the drive gear and oil pump

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#6 sandornothing

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:32 PM

Now the oil pump is completely exposed and accessable. Remove the sleeve and o-ring at the bottom of it and save those because you are reusing them. Remove the 3 bolts fastening the oil pump and pull it out gently.

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  • Attached File  oil9.JPG   254.36K   30 downloads

Edited by sandornothing, 18 December 2006 - 11:33 PM.


#7 sandornothing

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:35 PM

Now take that tiny circlip off the oil pump impellar shaft VERY CAREFULLY (I had to reuse it). Once that circlip comes off, the inner impellar slides off the old oil pump. Don't loose the steel pin underneath the impellar.....again because youre going to reuse it.

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#8 sandornothing

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:39 PM

Out with the 2004 oil pump....in with the 2007 oil pump. I guess the new one is higher volume. New one is on the left, and the old is on the right. Obviously the impellar, pin, and clip are reused on the new oil pump.

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  • Attached File  oil7.JPG   206.45K   45 downloads

Edited by sandornothing, 18 December 2006 - 11:55 PM.


#9 sandornothing

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:42 PM

After your new side case is all prepped (new seals, clips, check ball, and spring) take the tiny o-ring provided in the kit and put it on the squirter. The o-ring fits right in the groove cut out for it. Push the squirter in the side case and it is ready to install. Now install the new side case with the new provided gasket with the oil squirter facing in towards the crankshaft. Don't worry, it only goes in one way, I do not think it is possible to screw this step up. Then install the water pump assembly/cover and clutch cover just as they came off. Then add a new oil filter and put the oil filter cover back on, then put your foot peg and brake lever back on and you are good.

DO NOT FORGET OIL AND COOLANT BEFORE YOU START THE BIKE!

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Edited by sandornothing, 18 December 2006 - 11:57 PM.


#10 sandornothing

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:45 PM

Some notes:

1. Pay attention to how everything came apart because that is how everything will reassemble. Sounds lame, but there is room for error.
2. That circlip on the oil pump impellar shaft was a SOB to remove. Lots of swearing will aid in removal!
3. I oiled all the gears and o-rings prior to reassembling everything, even manually pumped oil through the new oil pump before bolting it in.
4. I could have reused alot of stuff from this kit but if you look at your parts invoice you'll notice that all the reusable items were under $5.
5. Speaking of......I was able to salvage the clutch cover gasket and save $5, but that is your call.
6. Make sure your "kit" includes an inner and outer water pump oil seal, mine did not.
6. Go easy on the water pump bearing and save yourself a trip to the parts store and $12.

It's an extremely easy job and well worth the effort. In my opinion, the whole underside of the piston is a trouble area in a 04-06 YFZ.......I don't care who the maufacturer of the piston is. We put about 10 hours on the bike this weekend in the dunes, with some pretty high revs too. Of course you can't see it, but I know its working its magic in there. The little hole in the squirter is extremely small. I use Rotella T synthetic 5W-40. There are no friction modifiers or Moly so it is OK on the clutch I guess.......It didnt slip once all weekend. The 5 weight oils should work well with this setup. Those of you who use 15/20W oils, I don't know how well this will workout, but I could be wrong.

Diesel of PDR was very helpful when I had questions both before and during the install, as this was my first time cracking open a YFZ. I got the kit from Bob, but I only had Bob's work number and not his after hours phone number, so that made it impossible to get his help come wrench time during the evening. From my experience Diesel will go the extra mile to make sure everything goes smooth. But to be honest the whole process was easy and you do not need any tech support. So you cannot go wrong with either Bob or Diesel's oil mod kit.

Hope this helps someone else out.

Edited by sandornothing, 19 December 2006 - 12:00 AM.


#11 DICK

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Posted 18 December 2006 - 11:50 PM

Great write up!! Sounds like I need to order up some parts. How much did the kit cost you from Bob?

#12 PDR

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 12:29 AM

What a great first post! :clap: Happy to hear the bike ran smooth all weekend. This is going to put allot of fears at ease. The write-up is very detailed and meticulous. Excellent work!

I hope to have 5 of these kits ready to ship within the next week or so. The parts are coming in slowly and I have yet to receive a full kit. I have everything updated in my sub-forum.

#13 Mr331

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 01:44 AM

Very nice write up! I'll be ordering a kit after the first of the year.

:laughoff:

#14 yfzwinchester

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 10:54 AM

Great write up, i cant wait to get my kit. I will definitly look on here for a guideline on the install.

#15 YFcraZ

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 12:39 PM

Nice write up. I think you should win a tee shirt for that write up!

#16 Alpha Duner

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 12:52 PM

nice write up but there is a honda in the last pic? lol

#17 cals400ex

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 04:08 PM

a honda indeed. it appears to be injected with venom as well........

#18 cpcpatriot

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 05:25 PM

very very good post

I am not posting this to bash at all but to me it seems that the oil mod done to the cases is a better way to spend money for somebody willing to split cases

I know i pay $50 to get the oil mod done. and you could take the other money and buy a Wr crank. split the cases and do a crank swap and oil mod and still be cheaper then the 07 oil mod parts.

once again not a bash just something i have been thinking about since the 07 mod seems to be gaining popularity

thanks for the great tech article

:laughoff:

#19 sandornothing

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 06:34 PM

a honda indeed.  it appears to be injected with venom as well........

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

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#20 Desertbound

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 06:45 PM

What up Phil? This is Brandon. Thanks for the write up. You gonna come out with us new years. I'll have a wr crank and venom piston for you to play with. Ha ha

Remember how I said My bike wasn't running right? Well there is a chunk of my piston missing. Ha.




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